Ten years after making his runway debut, Leandro Cano returned to his origins. For his fall 2024 proposal, titled Menú, the designer went again to the identical moodboard he had made for his first assortment. “In Buffet, my first assortment, there was just a little little bit of all the things,” he stated on the automobile park in Madrid’s metropolis heart the place the present was held. “For fall, I’ve been streamlining and distilling the designs—it nonetheless shares a few of the similar colours, shapes, and ideas as that first assortment, however now all the things is extra mature and with a extra worldwide standpoint.”
The Jaén-born designer likes historic figures to reinterpret them by way of his personal off-kilter lens; to wit, a toile de jouy print options the Spanish king Philip II and his spouse Mary Tudor, driving a motorbike and hanging out at a gasoline station, respectively. “I wished to interrupt up with the bucolic origins of the print and provides it a a lot more durable contact,” he defined. The print additionally contains a nod to his grandfather, who was a cab driver, and his Seat 1500. “In that automobile, I dreamt a thousand occasions about what I might do for a dwelling sooner or later.”
Cano additionally returned to the acute volumes of his beginnings, updating them by way of a brand new form. “We’ve at all times made them spherical and natural, and this time we went for a geometrical high quality. They’re extra architectural,” he stated. He additionally took the chance to discover black, a shade he hadn’t used till now. “I’ve a relatively love-hate relationship with black, however now I really feel very snug carrying it,” he mirrored. Key materials included nappa leathers, wools, and jacquards. True to his approach of conceiving trend, Cano proposed methods akin to macramé or crochet, with a knitting sample he discovered on a pillow that belonged to his grandmother, forgotten for years in a drawer.