Jenny Packham at all times likes to evoke one other period along with her night attire: for her fall 2024 assortment, for instance, she was impressed by the Seventies, whereas spring 2024 noticed her taking notes about Truman Capote’s Nineteen Sixties swans. But for fall 2025 she didn’t return a long time. She went again centuries.
Packham mentioned that Madame Juliette Récamier, a well-known French socialite through the early 1800s, acted as a muse this season. Identified for internet hosting spirited salons at her Rue du Mont-Blanc mansion and her modern fashion of gown (she typically forewent petticoats and corsets), Récaimier was as soon as some of the painted ladies in Paris. And most desired too: suitors included Prince Augustus of Prussia. “She was extremely trendy—she wore garments that had been a bit extra mushy and flowing,” mentioned Packham. “She was additionally identified for her curiosity in neoclassicism.”
The designer embraced a color-palette of grays, neutrals, petrol blues, as effectively silver and golds—“very a lot the colours of the time,” mentioned Packham. Silhouettes had been straight, sheath, or barely A-line. Most attire boasted spectacular, assertion making elaborations: one had sun-and-moon-like discs, one other a beaded fringe entrance. Packham was notably pleased with her gold sequin attire: “It’s nearly like we found a brand new sequin that appears form of ion gold,” she mentioned.
Many attire had lengthy sleeves—a useful alternative, as this assortment will hit shops in New York and London simply as chilly climate does. Nonetheless, a lot of Packham’s high-profile clientele currently has been in Southern California: Julia Louis-Dreyfus wore Jenny Packham to the SAG Awards; Toni Collette did the identical for the premiere of her film Mickey 17. Oh and that “ion gold” sequin gown Packham talked about? That made its debut Sunday evening on Connie Britton on the Self-importance Truthful Oscar Social gathering—simply days after being photographed for Packham’s lookbook.
Packham is the sort of designer who is aware of what her buyer desires and does it effectively: ladies of all ages commonly purchase her attire at her London boutique or Web-a-Porter for particular occasion dressing—whether or not a film premiere, a gala, or a marriage. This assortment checked all of the bins.