Hyke, with its outdoorsy and sensible but stylish womenswear, has crested the gorpcore wave of the final decade. Now that trend is shifting on, manufacturers like Hyke face a query: the place to subsequent? Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode, who between them have a long time of design expertise underneath their belt, offered their reply this season.
As an alternative of taking cues from sports activities like path operating or climbing, as they’ve prior to now, they shifted their gaze from the land to the ocean. Yoshihara credited Hyke’s collaboration with The North Face, which got here to an finish final season, with permitting them to discover climbing gear, however mentioned that it was time for one thing new. “We had to consider a more energizing method, and we landed on the ocean,” he mentioned.
The naval cues had been simple to learn: an anchor motif on a high with frilled arms, sailor pants and bodysuits with bib-front buttons, and Breton stripes that appeared on sweaters that had been actually skirts (as in look 35) however that may be worn as a costume (look 36). There have been additionally sheer panels on the backs of the blouses or on the arms, which the designers meant to impart a breathable fluidity. “Since globally the summers have been so scorching, we wished to convey a way of coolness to the gathering,” mentioned Yoshihara.
Naturally this coolness prolonged past the superficial. Within the first three seems, defined Ode, the fits had been truly created from a rayon polyester with an Oxford weave to provide a dry really feel; different suiting was crafted from mohair for breathability. “For the blouses we made a degree in utilizing materials that weren’t clingy, however that had been nonetheless taut and draped, so it has a really ethereal really feel to it,” she added.
The gathering, which was offered digitally towards a display screen of roiling waves, unfolded principally in black earlier than relenting into deep navy denim and a kick of khaki earlier than some splashes of crimson and sailor white. It felt recent. The tailoring was the robust level: sharp and austere in order that it nearly felt sci-fi, however, like all the pieces else within the assortment, eminently wearable. There’s no query that Ode and Yoshihara are seasoned designers, however this time additionally they proved themselves ready navigators of trend’s uneven waters.