Deconstruction in trend is related to designers like Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela who turned seams inside out and uncovered pockets, revealing the innards of the clothes together with the design course of. For the previous couple of seasons Mister It.’s Takuya Isagawa has taken this method past the garments and utilized it to his trend reveals. The designer—who discovered his craft at Margiela in Paris—has begun holding what he calls “open fittings,” combining an previous couture-style runway present with a mannequin becoming, which he performs for the viewers in a brightly lit Tokyo studio.
At his present this night, Isagawa appeared on the runway to introduce himself and briefly clarify the idea, then sat off to the aspect because the fashions got here out. Half of them carried nylon canvas purchasing luggage embroidered with a smiley face. As they paused subsequent to Isagawa, he took these smiling luggage and hung them onto an old school hat stand within the heart of the runway, dressing it up like an individual. Enjoyable however bemusing. It additionally tended to distract from the garments—which had been really fairly good.
Isagawa makes elevated informal clothes that he intends as “high fashion for the on a regular basis,” and this season continued to develop a couple of of his signature design quirks, elongating trench coats in order that they swept out into dramatic capes. He lower tailoring in mud-dyed floral prints and added outsized sq. pockets to slim flared denims. The model’s coat hanger-shaped leather-based purses made an look too; on one hung a double-breasted brown wool blazer subtly enlivened with rainbow-colored windowpane checks. The ultimate look was an ivory down jacket that was lined with big badges depicting all of Mister It.’s stockists. Completely authentic? Yup. Weird? That too.
There’s something quietly radical about Mister It. In an business the place cultivating mystique is the factor, a designer placing himself onto his personal runway with none fanfare (or seemingly any ego) is each disarming and refreshing. “I need to create a way of closeness,” he defined after the present. “Being a clothier isn’t nearly making garments. I additionally need to design how clients expertise the garments in order that they are going to be completely happy.”
General there have been too many concepts battling for consideration right here, however Isagawa displayed a subversive and beneficiant soul that was entertaining to observe. Even for those who’re unsure what you’ve simply seen, solely an actual distress guts may go away a Mister It. present with out a smile.