Getting into Dušan’s showroom, nestled in a chic constructing on a quiet Milan road, appears like coming into a preternaturally serene house, full of museum-worthy historic and Egyptian artwork treasures (he’s an keen collector) surrounded by a rare set up of bonsai timber.
Dušan Paunovic exists in a world of his personal—he’s immune to novelties, serves a loyal, upper-crust clientele that has caught with him for over 25 years (and put on Dušan alongside Hermès and Loro Piana) and despises the phrase “development.” “I don’t do traits,” he acknowledged. “You gained’t discover the newest craze right here. What you can find are designs that I regulate barely every season, however basically stay unchanged. It’s my formulation—every year you’ll be able to add new items while not having to discard what to procure the season earlier than.”
Paunovic honed his craft on the Milan atelier of the legendary designer Zoran within the ’90s. “I’m his solely respectable inheritor,” he mentioned. He has carried ahead a method that was an early forerunner of minimalism. Zoran, a visionary and extremely exacting designer, labored completely with the best materials, which complemented his linear, luxurious creations. Fiercely impartial (and self-funded) like his grasp, Paunovic stays true to his philosophy: “You must keep constant and genuine to who you’re.” He meticulously perfects each garment, guaranteeing the reduce, match, and particulars are flawless. His signature designs characteristic free, fluid, and outsized shapes—coats and jackets are provided in a single dimension. His curated wardrobe features a handful of thoughtfully designed items crafted from beautiful materials: a flowing outsized kimono trench coat, a barely extra fitted unstructured batwing jacket for this season, wide-leg pajama pants with an elasticated waist (this season he added an choice within the softest suede), and square-cut tops that look terribly stylish layered over his signature sarong skirts, which wrap across the physique with ease.
This season, Paunovic ventured into clothes, a class he often avoids. “They aren’t actually my factor,” he declared matter-of-factly. Nonetheless, he launched a flattering design in ribbed viscose, that includes a fitted bodice that flares into an extended skirt. He additionally experimented with a refreshed colour palette. Whereas he usually favors neutrals and black, he loosened his restraint, including shades like forest inexperienced, deep burgundy, and vibrant Chartreuse yellow. “However I’m nonetheless uncertain about that,” he mentioned, eyeing a superbly tailor-made chemise in liquid, sensuous silk satin in a comfortable coral pink, visibly puzzled concerning the daring new hue.