“We thought it could be good if folks wore our garments and skilled the world differently than they’d earlier than.” So stated Yuji Abe and Yu Kobayashi following Irenisa’s spring present, which unfolded on a damp Thursday night in a glass-walled studio above Harajuku station.
This time the duo took inspiration from Lucio Fontana, the founding father of Spatialism who slashed holes in his canvases, breaking his artworks away from their confinement throughout the body. In its personal method, Irenisa does the identical type of factor with garments, and Abe and Kobayashi have mastered their medium sufficient to make their very own deep cuts in ways in which really feel quietly uncommon. To wit: trousers got here with double waistbands, collar plackets had been deliberately wonky, and pinprick holes arrowed throughout the chests of sporty nylon blousons, which had been pleated on the again in order that they rippled throughout the shoulder blades like drapes.
The model hasn’t fairly mastered leather-based, nevertheless, and the belts felt too stiff and new subsequent to the loucheness of the remainder of the materials (which had been uniformly stunning). They included a summer season wool woven with textured stripes of washi yarn, silk wool satin that danced beneath mild, and T-shirts enlivened with kago-zome, a basket dyeing method that creates an impact akin to dappled shadows and that appeared significantly attention-grabbing on an uneven T-shirt costume.
This additionally marked the primary time the model has proven womenswear. Unsurprisingly, ladies are already clients of Irenisa’s menswear, so the event felt pure, but in addition served a few of this assortment’s highest notes, amongst them a striped wrap skirt with three ties up the facet of the thigh—the cotton was simply skinny sufficient in order that you possibly can see the legs transferring towards it—plus a sleeveless black costume with pockets that pulled the material tight throughout the crotch. How subtly bizarre—and in addition, how attractive!
It’s in these surprising, barely freaky moments that Irenisa shines, and it could be attention-grabbing to see the duo stretch this additional. If anyone’s going to match your freak, you have to let that freak flag fly.