Editor’s observe: The much-missed Helmut Lang is the topic of a new exhibition at MAK in Vienna. As a part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to doc the historical past of trend exhibits, we’re closing out 2025 by including as complete-as-possible digitized exhibits to the location. This spring 1992 ready-to-wear assortment was introduced in Paris in October 1992.
When Helmut Lang introduced this spring 1992 present in Paris, he was nonetheless years away from transferring to New York, but solutions of the Wild West gave the impression to be current in his use of physique paint, bolos, chaps, earth tones, and beaded snakes that wiggled their approach round briefs. Markers of warm-weather escapes—sandals, swimsuits, and polo attire—got here up towards studier, extra protecting supplies like leather-based and armor within the type of quill-like breastplates.
If the garments had a sure earthiness on the opening, there was extra of a techy feeling to the later exits, although that wouldn’t have been the terminology on the time. A pink lacquered jersey moved, the designer stated, like liquid. And the glazelike shine of Look 51 was created with an overgarment woven of a spiderweb-fine steel. The glint of metallic in basket-weave-look chaps felt a bit futuristic. One factor about Lang’s cowboys and cowgirls is that they weren’t afraid to indicate some muscle—or some pores and skin.